The importance of vintage, however, is both varied and disputed.
In wine produced on the colder limits of wine production, vintage is
often very important, because some seasons will be much warmer and
produce riper grapes
and better wine for people to drink. On the other hand, a poor growing
season can lead to grapes low in sugar, which lowers the quality of the
resulting wine.
In many wine regions, especially in the New World, growing seasons are much more uniform. In dry regions, the systematic and controlled use of irrigation also contributes to uniform vintages. However, such wines are regularly labeled by vintage because of consumer demand.
Wines of superior vintages from prestigious producers and regions
will often command much higher prices than those from average vintages.
This is especially the case if wines are likely to improve further with
some age in the bottle. Some wines are only labeled with a vintage in
better-than-average years, to maintain their quality and reputation,
while the vast majority of wines are produced to be drunk young and
fresh. In such cases, a vintage is usually considered less important.
However, it can serve to protect consumers against buying a wine that
would not be expected to improve with age and could be past its best,
such as with Beaujolais nouveau, a wine style made to be consumed within months of its bottling.
The importance of vintage may sometimes be exaggerated. For example, New York Times wine columnist Frank J. Prial
declared the vintage chart to be dead, writing that "winemakers of the
world have rendered the vintage chart obsolete" (Prial), and Bill
Marsano wrote that "winemakers now have the technology and skills to
make good and even very good wines in undistinguished years" (Marsano). James Laube of Wine Spectator has asserted that "even an average vintage can yield some grand wines" (Laube).
Roman Weil, co-chairman of the Oenonomy Society of the US and
Professor at the University of Chicago, tested the controversial
hypothesis that experienced wine drinkers "cannot distinguish in blind tastings
the wine of years rated high from those of years rated low, or, if they
can, they do not agree with the vintage chart's preferences" (Weil).
Dr. Weil used wines ranging from four to 17 years beyond their
vintage with 240 wine drinkers and found that the tasters could not
distinguish between wines of good and bad vintages, (except for Bordeaux wines),
and even when they could make a distinction, the match between the
tasters' individual assessments and the charts' rankings were little
better than tossing a coin. When the tests were replicated with wine experts, including French wine academics, the results were again the same as chance.
Weil does not consider a vintage chart to be useless. He suggests
using one to help "find good buys in wine. Buy wine from the Appalling
years," which may be priced far below actual quality.
The subject of the importance of vintage is one about which disagreement can be expected to continue.
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